This was my first time exploring Ecuador’s diverse landscapes – from colonial churches to cloud forests and the Amazon rainforest.

Here are the Key Takeaways from this post:

• Exploring Quito’s UNESCO World Heritage historic district
• Visting Mitad del Mundo, the Middle of the World
• Swimming in Mindo’s secluded cloud forest pools
• Experiencing Papallacta’s luxury hot springs
• Flying over the Amazon rainforest
• Meeting indigenous tribes in the Sapara territory

Arriving in Quito: First Impressions

After an adventurous series of connecting flights through Minneapolis, Miami, and Bogota, I finally arrived in Quito, Ecuador’s historic capital. I was so relieved to finally arrive at my hotel that I almost jumped out and kissed the ground. Instead, I wearily climbed several flights of stairs to my room on the top floor, crawled into the bed, and promptly fell asleep. 

Food and More in Quito

The next morning was a sight to behold, with a gorgeous view of the historic district of Quito, and La Virgen del Panecillo (AKA The Virgin of Quito) towering high on the hill right nearby. Fun fact: La Virgen is the tallest aluminum statue in the world, at 135 feet tall! She looks like an angel, but one of the locals informed me that the only reason she has wings is because at the angle she was made, they couldn’t get her to stand upright. So, they added wings on her at the last minute so she wouldn’t fall over. 

Friends Hotel was seated in the heart of the Historic District, which I’d planned intentionally so I could walk around and see all of the amazing 15th century gothic churches and colonial architecture in the area. The hotel was built in the 1700s, but had been completely renovated for modern times. 

After a lovely breakfast in the rooftop bar, I got ready to start my day with a walking tour, hosted by a local English speaking guide. (Luckily, I’d been brushing up on my Spanish, so it was a great opportunity to speak with him and practice my new language skills.)

During the three hour tour, we walked all through the historic district. I saw the town square, which was filled with flocks of gray pigeons. The beautiful stone buildings in the plaza were in stark contrast to the several people begging for spare change, bums sleeping in corners of buildings, and an array of unsavory looking characters mulling around. 

A man was shouting angrily at passersby through a loudspeaker, which was quite unsettling. I asked the guide what the man was yelling about, and I was told that he was upset about politics and yelling religious propaganda. I soon learned from various locals about the political unrest in Ecuador, and that an uprising to overthrow the current president was coming. 

Exploring Quito’s Sacred Architecture

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

The first stop on my walking tour was the magnificent Iglesia de Santo Domingo.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo was absolutely mind blowing. Filled with amazing gilded panels, painted ceilings, religious paintings, gold everywhere, it was a sight that I’ll never forget. Everywhere you looked, beautiful details adorned everything. The feeling of reverence, peace, and calm that pervaded it was dumbfounding. I think I had my mouth agape the whole time, just exclaiming “Wow!” everywhere I turned. It was a truly spiritual experience, and I felt such a sacredness here, listening to the sounds of holy chorus strains echoing through the arched rotundas. 

There were enormous frescos on all the walls, huge painted murals on the ceilings, gold leaf everywhere, intricately carved pews and confessionals- it was mind boggling! The eye couldn’t seem to rest anywhere, because there were too many details and ornate things to look at. 

Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus was just as incredible. It had the most interesting paintings and religious art I’ve ever seen.

I counted at least twelve ornately carved confessionals with well worn kneeling cushions lining the interior walkways. To think about all the knees that had knelt on those, and all the confessions that were disclosed! 

It was like that with the rest of the churches I saw too. Each one seemed even more intricate and detailed than the last. After seeing about seven of these stunning churches, they all started to swim together like soup in my mind. 

Basilica del Voto Nacional

The crown jewel of Quito’s religious architecture, the Basilica stands as the city’s most impressive church, representing centuries of architectural dedication and artistic excellence. Around the outside are several gargoyles, and various different animal sculptures lining the walls.

The church has high steeples that you can climb up to the very top of. I climbed almost to the top, and decided to stop as the staircase was very narrow and harrowing. Inside, magnificent stained glass religious motifs, mandalas, and designs adorn every window.

They started building this church in the 1800s, and are still adding to it today. Local legend says that when they finish it, the end of the world will be at hand. I finally had to stop taking pictures on my phone and just be present for it all, because none of the pictures I took really did it justice. It really is the most magnificent church I’ve ever seen in my life!

We don’t have this type of focused attention and dedication to architecture, art and beauty in America. For the most part, our culture is more concerned with function and purpose, rather than beauty and esthetic. The exquisite architecture, attention to every detail, and beautification of every single piece of these churches is just unmatched in today’s modern world. 

My next few days were spent touring Quito. I rode a gondola called te Teleferico cable car up the nearby mountain to view the towering volcanoes and snow peaked mountains surrounding the magnificent sprawl of the city below. I found a quaint little cafe where I sat and had a lovely chai tea and a traditional empananda. 

I ate local food at various restaurants, savoring a chocolate filled and jam filled Guaga de pan (an Ecuadorian breakfast treat shaped like a little man, known as a “bread baby,” filled with sweet or savory fillings.) 

I was particularly impressed with a rooftop restaurant called Vista Hermosa that was equipped with a real bell waiter. The views were spectacular, with a whole 360 degree view of the city, the intricate pointed turrets of the late 18th century Basilica del Voto Nacional nearby piercing the sky. My favorite dish was a delectable potato soup called “Locra de Papa” topped with melted cheese and avocados, accompanied by a delicious fresh pressed guava juice. 

The city of Quito is a mix of old and new, ancient buildings with modern murals and brightly colored splashes of paint adorning crumbling walls. The cobblestone streets, laid centuries ago, are worn and smooth, and though there are small sidewalks, most people just walk right down the middle of the street. The traffic is crazy, with very few people obeying any sort of traffic laws, making one wonder if there ever were any to begin with. 

Mitad del Mundo

Before I left Quito, I had to make a pit stop at Mitad del Mundo, the middle of the world. The middle of the world monument is on the equator line that separates the two hemispheres. I heard that when you stand there at high noon you can’t see your shadow. I also heard you can do some interesting things like balancing an egg on a needle, or something like that.

Inside the monument is a staircase with museum exhibits on each floor. The staircase takes you all the way to the top where you can see a 360 degree view of the mountains. If I’d known that there was so much to do, I would have spent several hours or even a whole day here. But since I’d asked the cab driver to come back after an hour and a half, I had to hurry through. Because I arrived without a guide, I meandered around just checking out the various shops and restaurants they had here.

Beyond Quito: Natural Wonders

Mindo Cloud Forest Adventures

Just west of Quito, Mindo offers:

• Intimate cloud forest experiences
• Secluded waterfall pools
• Vibrant butterfly gardens
• Exhilarating canopy swings
• Peaceful mountain town atmosphere

After seeing my fill of the city, I took a few days to explore some nearby towns. Mindo was a mountain town to the West, filled with little shops and and street vendors.

The vibe there was very slow and relaxed, and quite a bit more peaceful than the big city. I felt safe walking around here, (which was not the case in Quito, as I’d been eyed more than a few times there by suspicious looking men.) 

After a few hours drive in a cab, I arrived in Mindo at the tourist office, looking for a cloud forest excursion. When I’d been in Costa Rica, the cloud forests there had well cared for trails and visitors centers. I expected the same here, but was disappointed. There was nothing of the sort. Rather, a small family run business had purchased a section of rainforest with a very short trail that they allowed visitors to use for fifteen dollars a day. Since that was my best option, I took it, and was soon glad I did. 

I was the only person there, arriving quite late in the afternoon (after a debacle with the ATM machine which required me to catch another cab to a town thirty minutes away to what they called “the bank” but which was really just another ATM machine.🤦‍♀️) 

Even in mid November, it was quite hot, and as I wiped the copious sweat from my brow, I was pleased to hear that there was a man made pool from a waterfall along the hike. Since I’d forgotten to bring a swimsuit and was the only visitor there, they assured me it was no problem at all to swim in the nude. 

As I walked along the jungle trail, getting hotter by the minute, the waterfall pool upon arrival was looking very refreshing. There were a myriad of colorful butterflies fluttering about, the afternoon sunlight was filtering through the leaves, and the tall jungle trees created a very magical and serene scene. 

Seeing as how this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, I quickly got over any hangups I had about potential visitors seeing me naked. I promptly stripped off my clothes, and delicately dipped my toes into the rainforest pool. To my surprise, it was VERY COLD! What the hell, I thought, it was now or never. I took a deep breath and plunged myself into the icy depths, feeling a bit nervous as to what may be lurking beneath. YOLO right?!

After a few short minutes swimming in the pool, I got out and sat on a large rock to dry in the sun. I felt so lucky to be here, in this beautiful cloud forest, surrounded by nature, in this ancient part of the world that had so much diversity of plants and wildlife. 

I felt a sense of serenity and peace pervade my being, feeling the light of the sun on my naked body, at one with nature and the elements. I had to laugh at the sheer beauty of it all, gratitude bursting from my heart for this amazing life. 

Afterwards, I got dressed and headed back up the trail to find the “grand finale” of the excursion: A giant carnival-like swing attached to a pulley system that swung out high over the canopy. By this time, a few travelers had arrived, three young men apparently in their early thirties, from America. I was happy to meet some people who spoke English, as it was rare indeed in this predominantly Spanish speaking country. 

Two of the friends were getting fitted into the giant swing, and one was sitting on the ground nearby. I sat beside him and asked his name. He said it was Calvin, and he was visiting from Alaska. The swing then abruptly let loose, and sent his friends flying and screaming out over the expansive jungle canopy below. 

“Will you go with me next?” I asked Calvin, who admitted that he was afraid of heights. “Come on, Calvin,” I pressed him, “I’m too scared to do it alone! Won’t you go with me, please!? When will you ever be able to do this again? YOLO!” He looked at me and then grinned. “Ok,” he said, “I’ll do it.” His friends, who were walking up the path towards us, cheered him on. “Atta boy, Calvin!” They laughed. 

The two of us climbed up into the rickety metal seat, strapped on the old, worn and decidedly loose seat belts, and prepared ourselves. It was looking mighty sketchy from up here. I began to sweat profusely, wondering if I’d made a mistake. One thin, long metal cable was attached to the top of the swing, and a thin piece of metal acted as a gate near our feet. As I was contemplating the safety of this decidedly rickety structure, the gate swung open and the swing catapulted us out and over a cliff of towering jungle trees.

“AAAAAAAAGHHHHH!” Calvin and I both screamed, partially in terror, and then partially in delight, as we headed face down towards the canyon below, and then swung back towards the mountain behind us. I waved my hands in the air and cheered with pure delight. What an exhilarating, amazing experience! And the view! It was unbeatable. Calvin looked like he might throw up. 

(There is video evidence of this event, sadly however, it was too large to upload here. 😔)

We got out of the car and I gave him a hard swat on the back. “Well done, Calvin! You did it! Wasn’t that epic!?” He looked a little green, but smiled. “Yeah,” he said, wiping his brow, “That was fucking epic!” 

Papallacta Hot Springs

I had such a wonderful time at this luxury retreat that features:

• Multiple thermal pools
• Professional massage services
• Traditional Ecuadorian cuisine
• Views of the Antisana volcano
• High-altitude relaxation

The next day, I caught a cab to las termales (the hot springs) called Papallacta. These were to the East of Quito, and the mountains on this side of the city were much more impressive. On the way, I saw the biggest active stratovolcano I’ve ever seen in my life, called Antisana.  Climbing nearly 19,000 feet into the sky, it’s covered by a glacier, with a small lake nearby called laguna papallacta, which had formed thousands of years ago. 

The hot springs resort was very high end, with elegant fixtures and top notch service. I splurged and got a deep tissue massage (the therapist was strong, and made me wince in pain more than once, but it was worth it!). 

There were several hot springs pools to choose from, ranging from very hot to cold as ice. I lounged in the various pools all afternoon, stopping briefly to enjoy some tea and locra de papa soup for lunch. 

After soaking up as much of the hot water at papallacta as I could stand, I caught a cab down to the tiny city of Tumbaco where I had accommodations at Casa Ilyaku to meet up with my jungle group. The grounds at Casa Ilyaku were absolutely beautiful, with a grove of fruit and avocado trees and a view of the city of Quito in the distance. 

There were ten of us who’d signed up to do the tobacco mentorship program with Manari. We all met and spoke with the leader and interpreter of the program, Barbara, and chatted over dinner before heading to bed. 

The next morning, we awoke at 4 am to get loaded up onto the bus. It was a four hour ride to the jungle where we were to catch a plane to our final destination, the Sapara territory. I was so excited to finally meet my Shaman teacher, Manari. While in Quito, I’d seen a beautiful mural of a shaman, and felt it was a good omen and foreshadowing of what was to come in the jungle. 

Journey to the Amazon

The culmination of my Ecuadorian adventure led to the Amazon rainforest, where I:

• Flew over the canopy
• Met with the Sapara people
• Participated in traditional ceremonies
• Experienced indigenous wisdom
• Connected with ancient traditions

Flying over the Amazon jungle was a spiritual experience for me. The sight of a vast sea of trees in every direction, as far as the eye could see, was breathtaking and humbling. 

After a short hour flight into the heart of the Amazon jungle, we landed our tiny Cessna on a narrow strip of dirt and cleared trees. 

The members of the tribe came out to greet us, and I saw Manari, the head of the Sapara tribe, my teacher and mentor, for the first time in person. As much as I try not to put people on a pedestal, it can be hard not to. I have so much respect and admiration for this wise and kind man, a true spiritual leader, a champion for the environment, and someone whom I’ve been following for the last few years. I felt a wave of emotions wash over me, and tears sprang to my eyes. I was finally here!

They ushered us and all of our gear down a short trail that led into the dense jungle, which then opened up to a large circular structure a thatched roof and open walls housing long wooden benches. We were told this was where they would cleanse us of all the smells of the city, which the local spirits didn’t like. We all sat, introduced ourselves, and then listened in rapt silence as Manari began to share about what was in store for us over the next week. 

My experience traveling in Ecuador was truly amazing. It helped me grow in so many ways. For one, it helped me gain courage, as it was the first time I’d ever traveled out of the country alone. I did so many things that I’ve never done before, all by myself! Secondly, it helped me expand my awareness, my comfort zone, and my faith in myself to do hard things.

Ecuador offers an incredible blend of historical architecture, natural wonders, and indigenous culture. From the colonial streets of Quito to the depths of the Amazon rainforest, every destination provides unique experiences that transform an ordinary vacation into a life-changing journey.

👉Stay tuned for my next blog post, where I’ll share ALL about what happened in the jungle! 😃